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Vivitar lens filters series#

So, I've read the posts here and looked at that very helpful Lenstip review, and I've tried to find somewhat inexpensive CPLs that are admittedly not great but certainly good enough.

Vivitar lens filters series#

The Kenko is probably an older one and does not have multi-coating like most of the new (and much more expensive offerings) do.Each brand has various quality levels of CPLs.Massa CPL 52mm (given to me usually less than $10).Vivitar Series 1 CPL Multi-coated 67mm ( $15 Adorama).Kenko CPL Digital Filter High Quality 72mm ($19 on$bay).I'll share some of my experiences, and perhaps it will help others of you in a similar boat. I was mistakenly shipped a Vivitar CPL that was not Series 1.From what I could determine, Kenko is the Japanese edition of Hoya. It was not good at all, and I sent it back. The Series 1 is quite nice and advertises its VMC=Vivitar Multi-Coated.

The Marumi received a very good review on Lenstip. CPLs can sometimes be a bit tricky getting on/off the lens and adjusting the filtering.The Massa actually has some kind of coating.There is also a Super DHG line above the one I have, but I see those are available for $55 in the 58mm size.) The Marumi does not say anywhere on the front of its packaging that it is multi-coated, but the back side does point out its special "ultra-low reflection coating for digital cameras." (I think I got lucky on $bay, since what I paid for mine is usually what the cheaper Marumi line sells for. These are all fine but getting them off the lens occasionally takes a little extra effort. Someone should correct me where I err, but as I understand it, it is the nature of a CPL is to have different characteristics at 90 degree increments and depending which side you view it through.(Some filters apparently have something of a texture to them.) They all can be cleaned up if you get a fingerprint on them, but it seems harder to clean them as compared to a camera lens. A simple test is to hold a CPL up against a bright monitor.

I have to believe that the extreme yellows/blues of the Massa are a sign of its lower quality.īelow you can see the most yellowish tint and the most blue-ish tint at 90 degrees turned.

This test also indicated a significant imperfection in the Massa.

(Somewhat hard to tell on these pics, but there is a discoloration spot at 11 o'clock on the yellow = 8 o'clock on the blue.) I next turned the CPLs around to view the polarizing effect.

It was hard to get these all nicely lined up! The Vivitar does get a little darker and less blue.

It doesn't appear so on this pic, but the Massa actually allowed the most light through.

There was an obvious imperfection with the Kenko.

You can see it from 12-3 o'clock, but it actually goes all the way around. unless you're shooting in blowing dust or spraying water, you can dispense with any sort of lens filter.It's as if the polarizing effect does not go all the way to the edge or perhaps the glass was stressed.

If it's a Vivitar VMC filter, it's a keeper otherwise, it's "generic". I would say that for the most part, unless you're shooting in blowing dust or spraying water, you can dispense with any sort of lens filter - unless, of course, you're shooting film. A lot depends on if you're shooting into a strong light source. There are some filter quality tests floating around the internet and the Hoya's seem to be at or near the top in all categories. Seeing that you're in Slovenia, things may be different. The retail markup on glass filters is so ridiculous that your dealer should be able to give you sixty percent off with no trade. I have Hoya Super PRO1 protective filters on all my other lenses, not I'm not sure if I should replace this Vivitar with a Hoya as well or not.? I googled a bit and it seems they're not bad filters, but my local camera store has a "bring old and get 40% off new" HOYA filters deal. I bought a lens and got a Vivitar UV-HAZE (made in Japan) filter with it.